DOUBLE WEDDING RING BLANKET FAQ

Why did you choose cotton yarn for this project, and would it look just as good in another fiber?

I chose cotton for this blanket because of its durability and excellent stitch definition: two qualities that really make the pattern shine. For the original version, I used Universal Yarn Clean Cotton, which is made from 85% recycled cotton and 15% recycled polyester. According to Universal Yarn, it’s produced from soft, fluffy fibers that are left over from manufacturing other yarns—material that would otherwise be discarded. I wanted to show that even recycled yarns can be used to create heirloom-quality pieces, and I’m so glad I did. I feel confident that my original peach Double Wedding Ring Blanket will last for many years to come.

That said, Clean Cotton, while surprisingly soft, isn’t the softest cotton yarn available. If softness is a top priority for you, be sure to check out the next question, where I offer alternative cotton options.

I’ve also seen this blanket worked up beautifully in other fibers, including wool and acrylic. In fact, I crocheted a version in Cascade 220 wool and absolutely love how it turned out. The key to choosing yarn for this pattern is to prioritize stitch definition. Look for yarns that are worsted-spun, tightly plied, and smooth. These characteristics help the motif details stand out. Most importantly, choose a yarn that you will enjoy working with.

I always recommend making a swatch of Motif 1 with your chosen yarn and blocking it. That’s the best way to get a feel for how your finished blanket will look, and whether or not you’ll enjoy working with the yarn.

Curious to see how it looks in other fibers? Take a look at the finished projects on Ravelry.

I’d like to make my blanket in cotton, but I want to be sure that it will be super soft. What yarns would you recommend?

If you’re looking for a softer cotton, consider these brands, which other makers have had success with in Double Wedding Ring Blanket projects:

  • Universal Yarn Cotton Supreme (can be linty to work with, but after washing/blocking it will be fine and the resulting blanket is gorgeous and soft)

  • Hobbii Rainbow Cotton 8/8

  • Garnstudio DROPS Paris

Is this blanket made in one piece or in separate motifs that are joined?

This blanket is made with motifs that are worked in the round, which are assembled using a join-as-you-go (JAYGO) method. In other words, each motif, after the first one, is joined to a previous motif(s) on either one or two sides in the final round.

Do I have to use the JAYGO method to assemble this blanket?

No, not at all! It’s possible to make all the motifs separately and join them at the end if you prefer, though I don’t include instructions for this method in the pattern. Here are some of the alternative assembly methods I’ve seen folks use successfully with this pattern:

The only tricky part might be joining the chains in the lacy section at the middle of each side. If you use the Zigzag Slip Stitch Join, for instance, you might try using a standard slip stitch instead for the lacy sections (you’ll need to work these slip stitches rather tightly so that the chain doesn’t get too bulky). If you’re using the Invisible Mattress Stitch Seam, try using a whipstitch to sew the chains together tightly. Then go back to using your preferred method once you’re past that section.

Should I block the motifs as I make them or can I wait until the end?

I recommend blocking Motif 1 to 8 inches (20 cm) just to make sure you’re on track with gauge. After that there is no need to block the individual motifs as you’re making and joining them. I do recommend blocking your finished blanket. While it’s damp, you’ll want to gently shape the motifs in your blanket so that each one measures roughly 8 inches (20 cm) square.

Can I make this blanket a rectangle instead of a square?

I think making a rectangle version of this blanket is a great idea! The blanket is constructed with motifs that are joined as you go. After the first square, each square is joined to a previous one while working the last round. Once you’ve joined a few squares you should have no problem adding more motifs to one side to make a rectangle. Each motif adds about 8 inches to the length of the blanket.

You should also be able to use the border instructions for your rectangle blanket without any problem. Repeats in the instructions are across each side, so it doesn’t matter how long each side is. If you like stitch charts, the pattern also includes a reduced chart for the border, which you may find helpful. Be sure to buy additional yarn if you plan to add length to your project.

Can this pattern be worked so that each ring is a different color?

I love the idea of incorporating multiple colors in this design. Color can be such a creative way to personalize a project. That said, this pattern isn’t well suited to traditional crochet colorwork techniques.

Over the years, I’ve received a few requests like this one, and I’ve experimented with different ways to make color changes work. Unfortunately, the nature of the pattern—with its lace elements and front post stitches—makes it really difficult to carry unused yarn without the floats showing through. This means tapestry crochet techniques don’t work well here.

I also tried rewriting the pattern using intarsia, so that the rings and background could be worked in separate colors. But to be honest, it quickly became a logistical headache, requiring up to 16 separate yarn balls per round! In the end, I had to admit that this design is simply best suited to being worked in a single color.

Still, if you’re determined to add a pop of color, there may be creative ways to incorporate it—perhaps by working the motifs in different colors like a patchwork quilt, using a gradient yarn with subtle shifts in color, or sewing appliques to the border. But for distinct, separate rings in different colors, this particular pattern just isn’t the best match.

I’m left-handed. Can I still follow the instructions?

Great question—and I’m so glad you asked! Yes, this pattern is left-hander friendly.

The motif is worked in the round, and because it’s symmetrical on all four sides, it can be stitched clockwise or counterclockwise without affecting the final result. So whether you're working left- or right-handed, the motif itself will come out just as intended.

The join-as-you-go assembly is also written to be compatible with left-handed crocheters. After the first motif, each new motif is joined to the previous ones during the final round. I’ve reviewed the written instructions, stitch charts, and joining sequence diagrams, and everything should produce the same finished layout regardless of which hand you crochet with.

For the Joining Sequence diagrams, which show the order in which motifs are added, just know that the layout is worked right to left, top to bottom. This is simply the assembly order and doesn’t affect stitch direction, so it works just fine for left-handed makers too.

The pattern includes four stitch charts. You may find it helpful to flip (mirror) the charts horizontally, especially the single motif chart. That can make it easier to visualize the pattern from a left-handed perspective. Just keep in mind that flipping the joining charts may distort the motif order, so be cautious with those.

Still have questions?
If your question isn’t answered here or on the design page, please feel free to reach out through the contact form. And if you’re having trouble with the pattern, I’m here to help. My goal is to support you so that you can move forward with confidence and enjoy the process every step of the way.