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            My “Heel-out Socks” pattern is featured in the latest issue of Crochet World magazine. See how they’re made! Plus tackle the dreaded yarn twist, and follow the latest Wildflower Blanket developments.͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;͏‌&nbsp;
        
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      <p class="" style="color:inherit;font-size:1em;line-height:1.618em;margin:0 0 1.25em 0;font-weight:normal;margin-top:0;font-family:Palatino, Palladio, Baskerville, 'Nimbus Roman No9 L', Garamond, 'Century Schoolbook', serif;">Hello, my friends! It’s good to have you here.<em> </em>Read on to discover how to make the “Heel-out Socks” featured in the autumn issue of <em>Crochet World</em> magazine (there’s even a video!), learn how to deal with the dreaded yarn twist, and follow the latest Wildflower Blanket developments.</p><p class="" style="color:inherit;font-size:1em;line-height:1.618em;margin:0 0 1.25em 0;font-weight:normal;margin-bottom:0;font-family:Palatino, Palladio, Baskerville, 'Nimbus Roman No9 L', Garamond, 'Century Schoolbook', serif;"><em>Note that this newsletter contains links to outside products, but they are unaffiliated and are for informational purposes only. I do not receive any compensation when you make a purchase.</em></p>
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      <h4 style="color:inherit;margin:1.414em 0 .5em;font-weight:400;line-height:1.25em;font-size:1.25em;mso-line-height-alt:1.25em;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;font-family:'DejaVu Sans Condensed', 'Liberation Sans', 'Nimbus Sans L', 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;letter-spacing:.02em;">New Pattern Alert: “Heel-out Socks,” featured in the Autumn 2024 issue of <em>Crochet World</em> magazine</h4>
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      <p class="" style="color:inherit;font-size:1em;line-height:1.618em;margin:0 0 1.25em 0;font-weight:normal;margin-top:0;font-family:Palatino, Palladio, Baskerville, 'Nimbus Roman No9 L', Garamond, 'Century Schoolbook', serif;">If you’ve been following me for a while, you probably already know that I have a penchant for exploring interesting and unusual construction techniques in crochet. When preparing this submission for the magazine, I knew I wanted to explore something that has always intrigued me. While looking at a sock one day, I pondered how the heel is basically the same shape and constructed in the same way as the toe. It wasn’t long before I was thinking, “Could you begin a sock by starting at the heel?” </p><p class="" style="color:inherit;font-size:1em;line-height:1.618em;margin:0 0 1.25em 0;font-weight:normal;font-family:Palatino, Palladio, Baskerville, 'Nimbus Roman No9 L', Garamond, 'Century Schoolbook', serif;">Through some experimentation, I gleefully discovered that yes, you can! </p><p class="" style="color:inherit;font-size:1em;line-height:1.618em;margin:0 0 1.25em 0;font-weight:normal;font-family:Palatino, Palladio, Baskerville, 'Nimbus Roman No9 L', Garamond, 'Century Schoolbook', serif;">In the “Heel-out Sock,” you begin by making a foundation chain. Then you work into both sides of the foundation chain to create a sturdy, gapless beginning to your socks. Here’s the method I like to use, which I picked up from <a href="https://www.amazon.com/More-Crocheted-Socks-All-New-Designs/dp/1604680121" rel="nofollow" style="color:#000 !important;"><span style="font-size:inherit;font-weight:inherit;line-height:inherit;margin:0;text-decoration:underline;">Janet Rehfeldt in her book </span></a><em><a href="https://www.amazon.com/More-Crocheted-Socks-All-New-Designs/dp/1604680121" rel="nofollow" style="color:#000 !important;"><span style="font-size:inherit;font-weight:inherit;line-height:inherit;margin:0;text-decoration:underline;">More Crocheted Socks</span></a></em>: slip stitch into the back bump of each chain across, rotate to single crochet into the top loops of the chain, then rotate again to work into each of the slip stitches. </p><p class="" style="color:inherit;font-size:1em;line-height:1.618em;margin:0 0 1.25em 0;font-weight:normal;font-family:Palatino, Palladio, Baskerville, 'Nimbus Roman No9 L', Garamond, 'Century Schoolbook', serif;">Next, working in continuous rounds, you crochet the heel and gusset with increases on each side, much like you would for a toe-up sock. After this, the real magic begins, as you crochet a flap using half double crochet ribbing to the desired length for the instep (the bridge across the top of your foot). You then join the instep flap to the opposite gusset using a simple join-as-you-go method that mimics the look of the ribbing. </p><p class="" style="color:inherit;font-size:1em;line-height:1.618em;margin:0 0 1.25em 0;font-weight:normal;font-family:Palatino, Palladio, Baskerville, 'Nimbus Roman No9 L', Garamond, 'Century Schoolbook', serif;">I find that with most socks I make I have to adjust the pattern to fit my ankles. The benefit of working the instep in this way is that you can customize it to fit you just right. The ribbing gives it a lot of stretch as well, so it’s one of the most comfortable socks I’ve crocheted. But back to making our sock…</p><p class="" style="color:inherit;font-size:1em;line-height:1.618em;margin:0 0 1.25em 0;font-weight:normal;margin-bottom:0;font-family:Palatino, Palladio, Baskerville, 'Nimbus Roman No9 L', Garamond, 'Century Schoolbook', serif;">You now have a heel and an instep. All you need to do is add the foot and the leg. The foot is worked by crocheting around the bottom opening, into the sole stitches and ends of rows on the bottom edge of the instep. The rest of the foot is worked just like any top-down sock. </p>
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      <p class="" style="color:inherit;font-size:1em;line-height:1.618em;margin:0 0 1.25em 0;font-weight:normal;margin-top:0;font-family:Palatino, Palladio, Baskerville, 'Nimbus Roman No9 L', Garamond, 'Century Schoolbook', serif;">The leg is worked by crocheting around the top opening, into the rear foot stitches and ends of rows on the top edge of the instep. The rest of the leg is worked just like a toe-up sock. Finally a simple ribbed cuff is worked off of the top edge of the leg. </p><p class="" style="color:inherit;font-size:1em;line-height:1.618em;margin:0 0 1.25em 0;font-weight:normal;margin-bottom:0;font-family:Palatino, Palladio, Baskerville, 'Nimbus Roman No9 L', Garamond, 'Century Schoolbook', serif;">Would you like to see how this sock is made? I created a video for Annie’s to demonstrate these steps, and they’ve graciously allowed me to share it here with you. At only 1 minute and 30 seconds, it’s a short film, but I think it gives you the gist. Enjoy! </p>
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      <h4 style="color:inherit;margin:1.414em 0 .5em;font-weight:400;line-height:1.25em;font-size:1.25em;mso-line-height-alt:1.25em;margin-top:0;font-family:'DejaVu Sans Condensed', 'Liberation Sans', 'Nimbus Sans L', 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;letter-spacing:.02em;">Wildflower Blanket Update: New Layout!</h4><p class="" style="color:inherit;font-size:1em;line-height:1.618em;margin:0 0 1.25em 0;font-weight:normal;margin-bottom:0;font-family:Palatino, Palladio, Baskerville, 'Nimbus Roman No9 L', Garamond, 'Century Schoolbook', serif;">Last month, I shared with you my inspired decision to revise the Wildflower Blanket layout so that I could use hexagon, square, and triangle motifs. I’m banking on the idea that using a variety of shapes will make it easier to design flowers in many sizes. It should also make the spacing between the flowers look a little more natural. (The blanket designed with squares was looking rather blocky!) Here’s the new layout.</p>
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  <img class="section-scaleable-image" src="https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/62e5810f4ed7087d92a3ab54/8b4d9ea6-9f5b-45d2-8bb4-51530c265c8c/Wildflower-Blanket-Layout-Revised.jpg?content-type=image%2Fjpeg&amp;format=750w" width="594" alt="Graphic of a blanket layout made with hexagons, squares, and triangles. The shapes are arranged to create a color-block design with diagonal stripes of periwinkle, red, yellow, orange, and pink. The background is light green." style="font-size:.8em;display:block;border:0;text-decoration:none;line-height:0;background-color:transparent;font-weight:normal;height:auto;width:100%;max-width:100%;font-family:Palatino, Palladio, Baskerville, 'Nimbus Roman No9 L', Garamond, 'Century Schoolbook', serif;">


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      <p class="" style="color:inherit;font-size:1em;line-height:1.618em;margin:0 0 1.25em 0;font-weight:normal;margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;font-family:Palatino, Palladio, Baskerville, 'Nimbus Roman No9 L', Garamond, 'Century Schoolbook', serif;">I’m really happy with how this turned out, and I can’t wait to get started with the new motif designs. I have a long way yet to go, but this new layout has me inspired, and I’m looking forward to sharing some new wildflower motif designs with you next time.</p>
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      <p class="" style="color:inherit;font-size:1em;line-height:1.618em;margin:0 0 1.25em 0;font-weight:normal;margin-top:0;font-family:Palatino, Palladio, Baskerville, 'Nimbus Roman No9 L', Garamond, 'Century Schoolbook', serif;">I finally found some time this past month to work on the Botany Blanket. I love crocheting these motifs, but there are a lot of them, so it’s taking a while. </p><p class="" style="color:inherit;font-size:1em;line-height:1.618em;margin:0 0 1.25em 0;font-weight:normal;font-family:Palatino, Palladio, Baskerville, 'Nimbus Roman No9 L', Garamond, 'Century Schoolbook', serif;">Somewhere along the line, I decided to approach crocheting this blanket like an assembly line – it works really well for projects like this one, where you’re trying to get a bunch of the same thing made really fast. </p><p class="" style="color:inherit;font-size:1em;line-height:1.618em;margin:0 0 1.25em 0;font-weight:normal;margin-bottom:0;font-family:Palatino, Palladio, Baskerville, 'Nimbus Roman No9 L', Garamond, 'Century Schoolbook', serif;">Right now, I’m crocheting the white rounds on all the hexagon motifs. After this, I just need to add the final rounds to the square and hexagon motifs, and crochet all the triangles. Then it will finally be ready for assembly.</p>
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      <p class="" style="color:inherit;font-size:1em;line-height:1.618em;margin:0 0 1.25em 0;font-weight:normal;margin-top:0;font-family:Palatino, Palladio, Baskerville, 'Nimbus Roman No9 L', Garamond, 'Century Schoolbook', serif;"><strong>Question:</strong> This month’s question comes from Rebecca E. who writes: </p><p class="" style="color:inherit;font-size:1em;line-height:1.618em;margin:0 0 1.25em 0;font-weight:normal;font-family:Palatino, Palladio, Baskerville, 'Nimbus Roman No9 L', Garamond, 'Century Schoolbook', serif;">Hi. Bought the Sidar Jewelspun yarn to make the Painters Garden Blanket. I am making my gauge squares and find that the yarn twist and twist making it hard to work with, for me. Do you have some suggestions to prevent the twisting.</p><p class="" style="color:inherit;font-size:1em;line-height:1.618em;margin:0 0 1.25em 0;font-weight:normal;font-family:Palatino, Palladio, Baskerville, 'Nimbus Roman No9 L', Garamond, 'Century Schoolbook', serif;"><strong>Answer:</strong> This is a great question, and one that we’ll all probably encounter at one point or another. The reasons can vary between individual crocheters, as well as between different yarns. It all comes down to the way the yarn is twisted and plied during manufacturing, as well as the particular motions you make when you crochet. </p><p class="" style="color:inherit;font-size:1em;line-height:1.618em;margin:0 0 1.25em 0;font-weight:normal;font-family:Palatino, Palladio, Baskerville, 'Nimbus Roman No9 L', Garamond, 'Century Schoolbook', serif;">To understand why your yarn is twisting out of control, let’s first take a look at what gives yarn its twist in the first place. </p><p class="" style="color:inherit;font-size:1em;line-height:1.618em;margin:0 0 1.25em 0;font-weight:normal;font-family:Palatino, Palladio, Baskerville, 'Nimbus Roman No9 L', Garamond, 'Century Schoolbook', serif;">All yarn has some inherent twist, which is established during the spinning process. Spinning, or twisting the fibers together, gives the yarn its strength, stretch, and texture. The amount or tightness of the twist that is added to the yarn at this stage can affect the way that it behaves when you work with it.</p><p class="" style="color:inherit;font-size:1em;line-height:1.618em;margin:0 0 1.25em 0;font-weight:normal;font-family:Palatino, Palladio, Baskerville, 'Nimbus Roman No9 L', Garamond, 'Century Schoolbook', serif;">After spinning, most yarns are then twisted again when they’re plied together with one or more other spun yarns. To keep the final product balanced, the individual strands are usually twisted in one direction when spun, and then twisted in the opposite direction when combined with other strands during the plying process. Some yarns are listed as single ply, meaning that there is only one twisted strand to the yarn. Without the extra strand(s) to lean on or counterbalance it, single-plied yarn, especially if it has been spun very tightly, has a tendency to twist up on itself while crocheting.</p><p class="" style="color:inherit;font-size:1em;line-height:1.618em;margin:0 0 1.25em 0;font-weight:normal;font-family:Palatino, Palladio, Baskerville, 'Nimbus Roman No9 L', Garamond, 'Century Schoolbook', serif;">Another factor that can lead to the dreaded twisting problem is the direction that the yarn is twisted when spun. Take a closer look at a strand of yarn and you will notice that all of the fibers or plies will slant in one direction. When holding a yarn strand vertically, if the twist appears to go from bottom right to top left (\), it's an S twist; if it goes from bottom left to top right (/), it's a Z twist. Typically the original spin produces a Z twist. The plying process reverses this, so you will see that most commercially made plied yarns have a final S twist. Crocheting (right-handed) usually causes a Z-spun, S-plied yarn to untwist a little, while crocheting will add more twist to an S-spun, Z-plied yarn. </p><p class="" style="color:inherit;font-size:1em;line-height:1.618em;margin:0 0 1.25em 0;font-weight:normal;font-family:Palatino, Palladio, Baskerville, 'Nimbus Roman No9 L', Garamond, 'Century Schoolbook', serif;">Though it makes sense that no twist is actually added to a yarn when it’s wound by the manufacturer (since it’s wound around a core and not twisted onto it), I still think that a yarn’s put-up can affect the amount of twist you might experience when working with it. There are five ways yarn is commonly available—skein, ball, hank, cone, and cake. I find that cones, cakes, and skeins cause the most trouble with twisting. If the twist isn’t coming from the way it is wound at the factory, maybe it’s how the user works the yarn from the skein, ball, or cake that matters. Either way, the put-up does seem to matter, and in a moment, I’ll share some ways that we can resolve twisting issues with all of these.</p><p class="" style="color:inherit;font-size:1em;line-height:1.618em;margin:0 0 1.25em 0;font-weight:normal;font-family:Palatino, Palladio, Baskerville, 'Nimbus Roman No9 L', Garamond, 'Century Schoolbook', serif;">Did you know that you, the crocheter, might also be adding some level of additional twist to your yarn as you’re crocheting? How you hold your hook, how you control tension, and the motion you use to grab the yarn with your hook, can either add or subtract twist. </p><p class="" style="color:inherit;font-size:1em;line-height:1.618em;margin:0 0 1.25em 0;font-weight:normal;font-family:Palatino, Palladio, Baskerville, 'Nimbus Roman No9 L', Garamond, 'Century Schoolbook', serif;"><strong>An ounce of prevention:</strong> Whenever you find that you’re having trouble with a yarn twisting back on itself while you’re crocheting, take a moment to look closely at the yarn’s construction. Is the yarn single ply? Is the final twist an S twist or a Z twist? Does it appear to have been spun very tightly? What is the put-up? Make note of these things for future reference so that you can look for these characteristics and carefully consider them when you purchase yarn for your next project.</p><p class="" style="color:inherit;font-size:1em;line-height:1.618em;margin:0 0 1.25em 0;font-weight:normal;font-family:Palatino, Palladio, Baskerville, 'Nimbus Roman No9 L', Garamond, 'Century Schoolbook', serif;"><strong>But what if you’re dealing with a twisting yarn right now?</strong> Here are some tips that have helped me in the past. I hope they will help you too!</p><p class="" style="color:inherit;font-size:1em;line-height:1.618em;margin:0 0 1.25em 0;font-weight:normal;font-family:Palatino, Palladio, Baskerville, 'Nimbus Roman No9 L', Garamond, 'Century Schoolbook', serif;">1. Try using the yarn from the opposite end of the skein or cake. If you normally pull from the center, try using the outside end instead, or vice versa. This way, you might be able to cancel out the effects of any twist put into the yarn when it was made and wound.</p><p class="" style="color:inherit;font-size:1em;line-height:1.618em;margin:0 0 1.25em 0;font-weight:normal;font-family:Palatino, Palladio, Baskerville, 'Nimbus Roman No9 L', Garamond, 'Century Schoolbook', serif;">2. Along those same lines, if you’re working from the outside of the skein, try changing the direction from which you are pulling the yarn off the skein. If, as you’re working, the yarn is coming off the skein in a clockwise direction, turn the skein around so that it’s coming off in a counterclockwise direction. <a href="https://dorischancrochet.com/2014/03/03/crochet-and-yarn-seriously-twisted" rel="nofollow" style="color:#000 !important;"><span style="font-size:inherit;font-weight:inherit;line-height:inherit;margin:0;text-decoration:underline;">Here’s an interesting blog post by Doris Chan that further explains this idea.</span></a></p><p class="" style="color:inherit;font-size:1em;line-height:1.618em;margin:0 0 1.25em 0;font-weight:normal;font-family:Palatino, Palladio, Baskerville, 'Nimbus Roman No9 L', Garamond, 'Century Schoolbook', serif;">3. You could also try rewinding the ball/skein/cake, either with a swift and ball winder or by hand. </p><p class="" style="color:inherit;font-size:1em;line-height:1.618em;margin:0 0 1.25em 0;font-weight:normal;font-family:Palatino, Palladio, Baskerville, 'Nimbus Roman No9 L', Garamond, 'Century Schoolbook', serif;">4. Adjust the way you hold your hook. For some crocheters, switching from pencil-hold to knife-hold, or vice versa, can reduce the amount of twisting involved in each stitch. </p><p class="" style="color:inherit;font-size:1em;line-height:1.618em;margin:0 0 1.25em 0;font-weight:normal;font-family:Palatino, Palladio, Baskerville, 'Nimbus Roman No9 L', Garamond, 'Century Schoolbook', serif;">5. Try loosening up your tension a little bit, which may relieve some of the twist caused by the stitching process. </p><p class="" style="color:inherit;font-size:1em;line-height:1.618em;margin:0 0 1.25em 0;font-weight:normal;font-family:Palatino, Palladio, Baskerville, 'Nimbus Roman No9 L', Garamond, 'Century Schoolbook', serif;">6. Put the yarn on a spindle-style yarn holder so that the skein, cake, or cone rotates as you work, continually feeding in the direction that it was originally wound. I’ve seen quite a few of these on the market in recent years, but I haven’t actually tried one yet. If you have, let me know. I’d love to hear what you think! </p><p class="" style="color:inherit;font-size:1em;line-height:1.618em;margin:0 0 1.25em 0;font-weight:normal;font-family:Palatino, Palladio, Baskerville, 'Nimbus Roman No9 L', Garamond, 'Century Schoolbook', serif;">It may just take some trial and error to find the method that does the trick. But keep at it, and I know you'll find some relief and be crocheting with ease in no time.</p><p class="" style="color:inherit;font-size:1em;line-height:1.618em;margin:0 0 1.25em 0;font-weight:normal;margin-bottom:0;font-family:Palatino, Palladio, Baskerville, 'Nimbus Roman No9 L', Garamond, 'Century Schoolbook', serif;">Thanks, Rebecca E., for this fantastic question. Do you have a question you’d like me to tackle? Send it to <a href="mailto:crochet@jenniferolivarez.com" rel="nofollow" style="color:#000 !important;">crochet@JenniferOlivarez.com</a>, and I may answer it in a future newsletter. </p>
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